The watch industry is a fascinating realm, brimming with innovation, tradition, and a myriad of terms that can often leave enthusiasts and casual observers alike scratching their heads. This week, we delve into a few intriguing topics that have been making waves, from the intersection of art and horology to the evolving definition of 'microbrand'.
MB&F's M.A.D.Gallery: Where Art Meets Horology
MB&F's M.A.D.Gallery has always been a beacon for those who appreciate the marriage of art and horology. Since its inception in Geneva, it has championed the eccentric, the innovative, and the boundary-pushing. The latest creation, a kinetic watch winder by British artist Martin Smith, is a testament to this. The Solar Orbiter, a 60cm tall masterpiece, is a sculpture that quietly rotates a watch, all while paying homage to Smith's earlier works. It's a refreshing reminder that horology isn't just about the watches; it's about the stories and the craftsmanship that go into creating them.
In my opinion, MB&F's M.A.D.Gallery is a shining example of how the industry can embrace the unconventional. It challenges the notion that horology is solely about the mechanical intricacies of a watch. Instead, it celebrates the art, the imagination, and the craftsmanship that make each piece unique. Personally, I think this approach is what sets MB&F apart and makes its creations so captivating.
Shinola's Brand Campaign: A New Story
Shinola, an American brand, has been telling stories about Detroit, craftsmanship, and its flagship Runwell watch for a decade. However, it has surprisingly never launched a dedicated brand campaign. With 'Set the Pace', the company's first-ever campaign, fronted by Nicholas Braun, Shinola is attempting to redefine its brand identity. The short film, 'The Restaurant', transforms an ordinary dinner into a race against time, with the relentless ticking of the Runwell watch as the central motif.
From my perspective, this move is intriguing. It's a shift from focusing on specifications and heritage to exploring our relationship with time itself. It's an attempt to define what the brand stands for in 2026, rather than just celebrating a single model. While it's an interesting move, I wonder if it will resonate with collectors. Launching a brand campaign after a decade might not be the conventional route, but it's a bold move that could potentially pay off.
The First Rolex Daytona Rainbow: A Collector's Dream
The first new-reference Rolex Daytona Rainbow has hit the auction block in Australia, and it's already making waves. With a retail price of US$324,700 and an off-catalogue status, the yellow gold Daytona is a collector's dream. At the time of writing, bidding has already reached A$395,000, with just a few days remaining before the hammer falls. The result will provide the first real indication of how collectors value Rolex's latest Rainbow Daytona in the open market.
What makes this particularly fascinating is the contrast between the retail price and the secondary market value. It raises a deeper question: how do collectors value these limited-edition pieces? The answer lies in the relationships and the exclusivity that come with owning a Rolex Daytona Rainbow. It's not just about the watch; it's about the status and the prestige that come with it.
The Microbrand Debate: A Term in Flux
The term 'microbrand' has become as divisive as it is overused. Not that long ago, it was a badge of honour, representing small teams taking creative risks without the baggage of decades of heritage or sprawling corporate structures. Brands like Studio Underd0g, Baltic, and Christopher Ward have all embraced the idea of being small, independent, and community-driven. However, the market has changed, and the term has become too broad to be genuinely helpful.
In my opinion, the term 'microbrand' has become associated with the latter just as often as the former. It's easy to understand why some brands feel they've outgrown the label. The answer, perhaps, isn't to abandon the word altogether, but to redefine it. 'Small independent' or 'indie' might be more useful, as it tells you something meaningful about the business without implying a particular level of quality, production volume, or stage of development. Either way, it's an interesting discussion, and I have a feeling it won't be the last time the watch industry finds itself debating what a microbrand actually is.
Wrist Shot of the Week: A Tonda Minute Rattrapante
Corey, otherwise known as @enthuseddad, caught my attention with these shots of his gorgeous Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Minute Rattrapante. Paired with a grey rubber strap and a dial that somehow manages to make grey look sensational, it's a stunning piece. The Tonda Minute Rattrapante is a testament to the brand's craftsmanship and attention to detail, making it a standout choice for any watch enthusiast.
Time+Tide Shop Pick of the Week: Wren Diver One Obsidian
Wren's second collaboration with Ben's Watches builds on the success of last year's Diver One Magma. The Wren Diver One Obsidian wraps its molten orange fumé dial in a stealthy black DLC-coated case and bracelet, creating a striking contrast. Limited to an initial run of just 100 numbered pieces, it remains an enthusiast-focused everyday dive watch, powered by the dependable Sellita SW200 automatic movement. It's an evolution of a distinctive entry in the independent dive watch scene, and it's definitely worth checking out.
Our Favourite Time+Tide Coverage of the Week
Which Omega Speedmaster Should I Buy?: The White Dial Moonwatch
The white-dial Omega Speedmaster Professional has quickly become one of the year's most talked-about releases. Andrew and Justin take an honest look at the watch, exploring its design, history, wearability, and why it might just be the Speedmaster to win over a new generation of collectors. It's a must-read for anyone considering adding a Speedmaster to their collection.
Where the First Automatic Wristwatch Was Really Made
Russell travels to the Fortis manufacture in Grenchen to uncover the remarkable origins of the world's first serially produced automatic wristwatch, and why history hasn't given John Harwood the recognition he deserves. It's a fascinating read that sheds light on a pivotal moment in watchmaking history.
Vacheron Constantin Innovations: from Twin Beat to Overseas Ultra-Thin
Andrew, Justin, and Vacheron Constantin's Christian Selmoni explore five extraordinary timepieces from the brand's archives, revealing how two centuries of technical breakthroughs continue to shape one of watchmaking's oldest manufactures today. It's a glimpse into the future of Vacheron Constantin, and it's definitely worth a read.
